Monday, January 18, 2010

Why so much surf?

Today Denny took us to a secret spot down south – a left and right breaking reef he found exploring a while back. And again we scored, making it four for four. The spot was absolutely going off in both directions and with the tide on its way in the conditions became really rippable. All the boys killing it and Greg Ewing and I shot some stuff from the land before I went to shoot in the water.

I can’t believe how much surf this place gets. Either we’ve just been incredibly lucky every day, or this really is an incredible spot that anyone who loves long right-handers and the occasional left should come visit.

We’re all absolutely broken tired right now and from looking at the forecast, we’re going to get a foot larger swell tomorrow. It just doesn’t stop…

Go to if you want to score some of these spots for yourself.

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