Thursday, January 21, 2010

And the swell, she came

As predicted, a new swell hit the coast early this morning and we were at Boats by first light. Unfortunately, and as is often the case with new swells, the direction of the first of the lines was just a little wide for the points up north. There were some good 6 to 8 foot sets coming in, and the boys dropped into a couple of bombs at Anchor Point – but they were a little flat faced and hard to surf.

Frankie broke two boards in as many surfs, Shaun boosted some fins out the back and Rudy, back on his own equipment, laid it on the rail. All in all, though, it was a pretty unrewarding day in terms of footage as the waves were just a little too flat on the face to allow for the kind of surfing I want to showcase in the film.

On a more positive note, I got to get in the water today and share a couple of waves with the boys on sunset – just another day in the office. Let’s hope the swell straightens itself out and we get some clips in the bag tomorrow.

Above is a shot of Frankie unleashing just before he snapped a board.

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