Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Leading up to the swell

So Dan's boards arrived and after a traditional Reunion meal at a local restaurant we headed off last night to the airport . A 1 hour round trip turned into a 2 and a half hour nightmare lost in the city. The lower highway was closed and we were sent deep into the abyss. Anyways long story short,we only got home after 12 and thats the reason we never posted a blog last night.

So heres whats been happening.Yesterday we hit up the same right and the boys gained some more air miles,on return to St Leu a few waves were peeling down the reef and a couple of the guys and myself headed out and enjoyed a few magic waves.So good to be in the water again.

Romain our local friend who just happens to be an amazing surfer,guided us up to the middle of the island at 6 am this morning ,on my request to shoot some magical landscape scenes for the film.
The boys, Greg and myself were blown away at what we saw,it was like standing on top of the world looking down on a scene from Loard of the rings.Truly one of the most breathtaking views i have ever witnessed.

On return back to our camp it was clearly evident that the predicted swell was showing some forerunners,and with the buzz about the island and what we can see from the maps,it looks like tomorrow morning is going to be funneling 6 to 8 foot lines into the magical St Leu bowl.
This is just the start of the first of 3 swells that will run the coarse of the next 6 days.
Needless to say,Dave ,Dan and Dale are super amped. Will keep you posted on what these swells bring.

Over and out.

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